Nigel Ewan enjoys life.
5.28.12 Laundry: Fold and Stack
White twill, white OCBD, blue gingham, blue gingham, blue bengal stripe OCBD, blue OCBD, blue twill, red gingham, red gingham, red bengal stripe, pink OCBD, fun shirt, yellow gingham, yellow broadcloth
Mmmmmm, shirts.
In honor of Colleen and her birthday, here is Ted Leo.
I wasn’t planning to make more shirts this week, but after a trip to Jo-Ann Fabrics on monday, I got excited to use some new stuff. I ended up with three shirts.
The first one is a generic short-sleeved shirt in red, white, and blue seersucker plaid. I didn’t use any interfacing in the collar! I put plastic buttons on it, in contrast to the usual. It’s fun!
The second shirt is really lame, made from “Lisette”-brand fabric on sale at Jo-Ann. I managed to make this shirt with 1.8 yards, which is a pretty good feat. But the shirt itself isn’t good. The fabric is too sheer; it was a pain to work with, and not in a good way. The pattern is cool and interesting from close-up, but from far away it looks muddy and gross. I don’t know how much I’ll end up wearing this one. But it was a good learning experience.
I’m really proud of this week’s last shirt, which is a long-sleeved shirt with barrel cuffs and gathered sleeves made from really beautiful white-and-grey cotton seersucker. It feels great, fits great, and looks really nice. The best part is the collar, which I cut perpendicular to the normal way. The grey stripes were so compelling that I really wanted to highlight them. Cutting the stripes this way helped make them more dominant! I think it turned out really well.
Currently I’m about halfway done with a short-sleeved “fun shirt”, so that ought to be done for next weekend’s roundup. Beyond that, who knows?
aspirationsandthings asked:
Hi Nigel! I've followed your blog for a bit now and I've noticed from your photos that you have a very unique (in the best way possible) style- very 1930's. I was just curious, in terms of your own style and the shirts you've been making lately, what gives you inspiration and draws you to the older style? I love it, it's very classy. Love what you've been posting on here lately!
Thanks for the compliments!
The 1930s is my favorite decade in terms of menswear; I draw a lot of inspiration from the silhouette of the period: strong shoulders, high, suppressed waistlines, sturdy, columnar legs. I like the way this sort of silhouette looks on me, so I’ve gravitated to it.
I just love history, mostly. I try to approach my garment-making as historically as possible. When I make something, I do as much research on that style of garment as I can. It’s more fun to make a garment when you are trying to do it in a period-specific way. Most things that make a shirt look “1930s” are the opposite of what’s popular with the #menswear community right now… I enjoy being a little countercultural.
I love the work of Laurence Fellows, the greatest fashion illustrator of menswear’s golden era. I’m continually running into his work online and becoming inspired.
It’s been so warm lately that my hair keeps falling in my face, making me sweat and making it very difficult to work. So I made a little cap to keep my hair on top of my head while I’m working.
It looks a little silly, but it does the job. And it’s breathable: made from left-over tobacco linen and lined with lightweight cotton voile. Sewn by hand, without any machine stitches. Perfect for summer days spent working over a hot iron.
When I was in the Bookstore at T4G last month, some conference workers asked to take my photo as part of a “T4G photo booth” they were doing. They also took a photo of me with my mother and grandmother, which I think turned out pretty good! (Thanks, Sarah!)
satchelboy asked:
about how long did it take you to make your first shirt? I have a beginners knowledge of sewing and have done a few other projects. Also where did you get your shirt pattern? Did you base it off your measurements or just take a standard one and alter it? Also may I just say I love your blog, I only just started following but may I saw although my blog may not reflect the particular aesthetic I very much appreciate your understanding of traditional menswear!
Thanks so much for your kind comments!
I didn’t keep track of time when I started. At first, shirtmaking seemed like an insurmountable task: I’d work for a while then put it away for a few weeks. So it took a long time to finish a shirt, and they weren’t very good. By last summer, I could finish a shirt in a week’s time. As I’ve gotten even better since then, I’m able to work much faster than that—mostly because I make less dumb mistakes.
I started out by taking apart an old shirt and tracing the pattern. After I became familiar with the technical skills required for shirtmaking, I drew my own pattern from a draft in the book A Guide to Casual Clothes by Roberts and Onishenko. I wouldn’t recommend starting with a custom pattern until you are confident with the sewing techniques… getting a good fit is a lot of added stress!
Anyone looking to start should definitely read Shirtmaking by David Page Coffin. It is an excellent, easy-to-understand book.
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